240Z Throttle Cable Conversion

Throttle cable conversion components

For the mods I used three components available from EFI Hardware in Australia for this 240Z throttle cable conversion (click the images below). I already had the control end sorted by Whitleytune as part fo the custom manifold.

If you are converting from a linkage, I recommend contacting your supplier. I hazard a guess you will not be the first to ask and they are likely to be able to supply the required crank arms, stops, etc.

Throttle cable installation (240Z example)

1. Remove the existing linkage hardware

I’m working with a RHD Australian delivered 1971 Datsun 240Z. From what I can tell all the S30Z chassis have similar linkage hardware and pedal. Remove all existing linkage hardware from your engine bay. Remove the grommet at the firewall and the accelerator from the assembly.

2. Modify the accelerator pedal

Excluding the termination of the throttle cable, this is the only modification you have to make as part of this throttle cable conversion. Simply drill out the press fit side of the ball at the end of the pedal. The remaining hole is the correct size for the EFI Hardware heavy duty ball end fitting.

I retained what was remaining for the ball end in the event I wanted to return the pedal to its factory configuration.

3. Prepare the throttle cable

Measure the cable to the length required observing any manufacturer requirements for fitment of the cable sleeve ends. I am running a custom ITB setup on my 240Z L28 stroker (see more on the motor HERE) so the termination end for this throttle cable conversion was sorted.

Properly install the threaded ends to the cable sleeve and begin assembly. Install both nuts and one panel washer sufficient to cover the factory grommet hole on the fire wall end. Slot one of the panel washers so that you can removed it to allow the assembly to be removed. If you do not, you will need to remove the heavy duty ball end to remove the cable.

4. Install the cable

Installation of the cable is easy. Feed the assembly through the factory firewall hole. Slip the slotted washer over the nut and tension appropriately. Fix the heavy duty ball end through the reinstalled pedal. Thats it for the firewall end.

The termination end will depend on your setup. My ITBs were supplied with suitable hardware for the throttle cable.

Conclusion

This installation was not difficult. It was pretty easy actually. Using the heavy duty offset ball socket end means the pedal arm does not need to be manipulated unlikely other options (Lokar cables require this to happen – see Arizona Z install here).

Initial testing of the pedal has a much improved feel over the linkages. I certainly can forget all that brain training to allow for the slack in the linkages while driving! A worthwhile modification and highly recommended.